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【沪】意大利慈善盛宴 – Italian Cuisine for Charity

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Chefs in the City在Da Ivo意大利餐厅的宝贝基金会上

Chefs in the City “Baobei Foundation Charity Dinner”

at Da Ivo Italian Restaurant

作者/Author: Leslie Ruskin

摄影/Photographer:顾骥 & Leslie Ruskin

翻译/Translator: 吴剑雄Richard Wu

当饥饿的客人们走向坐落于优雅外滩边上的意大利餐厅Da Ivo时,六位上海首屈一指的意大利大厨:David Bassan, Marco Busatti, Giuseppe Tino, Riccardo Messina, Marco Barbieri, 和Corrado Michelazzo 正在半开放厨房内忙碌地准备着当天极尽奢华的菜肴—一场独一无二的由六道佐有葡萄酒的菜肴组成的晚宴。专家sommelier Simone Semprini给每一道佳肴都选择了搭配的葡萄酒。

As the hungry guests strolled into the elegant Bund-side Italian restaurant Da Ivo, six of Shanghai’s premier ItalianChefs, Chef David Bassan, Chef Marco Busatti, Chef Giuseppe Tino, Chef Riccardo Messina, Chef Marco Barbieri, and Chef Corrado Michelazzo, were busy in the semi-open kitchen preparing the extravagant cuisine du jour, an exclusive, one-of-a-kind, six-course dinner. Expert sommelier Simone Semprini chose the always-appropriate wine pairing for each course.

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坐在座位上后,我很快就被两道摆在镶金框镜子上,看上去独特而美味的开胃菜吸引住了。我先往嘴里放了一块黑色的饼干,上面配了奶白色的泡沫。第一时间我就从天鹅绒般浓郁的味道里感觉到了:那奶白色的泡沫是由陈年的帕玛森芝士制成的。然后我将注意力集中到饼干上,那也是由陈年的帕玛森芝士制成,不过,那是先经过烘焙融化后再凝固而成的松脆的奶酪饼干。很快我的注意力就被今晚的另一道开胃菜吸引过去,一个小小的透明的塑料制的小酒杯,装有更多乳白色的泡沫,上面还有一块用披萨面团制成的如羽般轻薄咔擦脆的树叶。我用一个迷你小勺往里挖,每挖深一层都能发现不同层次的口味在我的口中徘徊,很快我就意识到我是在吃一个装在杯子里的液体披萨。

After being guided to my table, I quickly noticed two delicious and unique looking Amuse Bouche served atop a gold-framed mirror. I first popped into my mouth a darkish colored square cracker topped with creamy white foam. At once I realized from the velvety rich taste that the foam was made from aged parmesan cheese, and as I crunched into the cracker I also realized that it, too, was made from aged parmesan cheese which had been baked melted and then re-solidified into a crackly cheese cracker. My attention next quickly focused on the night’s other starter – a small, clear plastic shot glass filled with more white creamy goodness, with a crunchy, feather-thin wafer of pizza dough shaped like a like a tree leaf sticking out the top. I used the mini-spoon to dig inside and lingered in the different tastes found at each different level; then I quickly realized I was eating kind of Liquid Pizza in a cup.

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大部分的客人都已落座,今晚的第一道佳肴也上桌了—–大厨Corrado Michelazzo的创意咸味鳌虾提拉米苏(Langoustine and Bottarga Tiramisu)这个富有想象力的菜肴,背后的灵感来源于意大利的经典甜品提拉米苏。不过并不是像普通的提拉米苏那样用酒浸软饼干为基底,大厨Michelazzo是用铁板干煎过的鳌虾,洋葱及帕尔马火腿。马铃薯慕斯代替了传统的马斯卡彭芝士,最后把晒干加工过的意大利乌鱼子代替传统的可可粉使用。鲜味如波涛般冲刷我的味蕾。与此同时,我非常高兴的看到今晚的第一支葡萄酒亮相了,一支来自“欧洲年度酒厂”法拉利酒厂,用100%霞多丽酿制的气泡酒。Metodo Classico Brut Trento, Fratelli Lunelli这支在特伦提诺山酿制而成的霞多丽酒,带给鼻子和舌头和谐而平衡的果味,犹如成熟的苹果般。这种清新的果味很好的平衡了来自洋葱和火腿那浓郁的味道。

Once most of the guests had arrived, the evening’s first course began to be served – Chef Corrado Michelazzo’s Langoustine and Bottarga Tiramisu. The idea behind this imaginative dish is based on the Italian classic tiramisu dessert. But rather than using the usual alcohol-soaked soft biscuit as the base, Chef Michelazzo uses cooked onions with Parma ham and a pan-fried langoustine. Potato foam also replaced the usual top mascarpone cheese; and dried, cured, Italian Bottarga fish eggs were used in lieu of the typical cocoa powder. Waves of umami washed over my tongue with every bite. I was happy to see the evening’s first wine being poured, a 100% Chardonnay sparkling white from Ferrari Winery, who was awarded “European Winery of the Year”. This chardonnay – Metodo Classico Brut Trento, Fratelli Lunelli – is produced in the mountains of Trentino and offered harmonious and well-balanced tastes with hints of ripe apples and other fruits on the nose and tongue. The fresh and intense fruity bouquet balanced well against the stronger tastes of onion and ham.

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下一道上桌的是大厨David Bassan的厚实如奶油般的欧洲防风草汤配榛子及蘑菇。原本这应该是一道土豆汤,不过David Bassan大厨想为这次的晚宴准备一些特别的菜式,所以他选择了一种土豆流行以前的食材–欧洲防风草,让大家能够触碰到意大利传统的味道。Bassan大厨先用黄油煸炒一下大葱,然后加入切成片的欧洲防风草,再加入切碎的烤榛子和鸡汤。如此煮沸后,将汤调制成奶油般完美的稠度,再以少许盐,白胡椒和淡奶油调味。最后为了给整个汤更鲜明的色彩和口味,加入了为这个汤精心特制的以大蒜和欧芹制成的香蒜酱,用榛子油煮过的蘑菇和切碎的烤榛子。Bassan大厨试图打破常规,去寻找一些不那么普通常见的味道,我觉得他的尝试很成功。

Chef David Bassan’s thick and creamy Parsnip soup with hazelnuts and mushroom was next on offer. Chef Bassan wanted to prepare something hearty for the event, like potato soup, but chose parsnips instead to go further back to Italy’s traditional roots before potatoes were popular with a contemporary touch. Chef Bassan first fried up some leeks with butter and then added in the parsnip cut into pieces, some chopped, roasted hazelnut, and chicken stock. This was boiled and then blended to the perfect creamy consistency. A pinch of salt and white pepper and cream are added for extra seasoning and presentation. Lastly, some pesto, made from garlic and parsley, along with mushrooms were sautéed with hazelnut oil, and chopped, roasted hazelnut and were delicately laid out onto the soup for added color and taste. Chef Bassan was looking for something not so common and to change the usual routine taste. I think he succeeded.

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紧跟着汤而上的是Marco Barbieri大厨做的墨鱼球。一道非常传统的菜式,将炖煮过的墨鱼和豌豆切碎,再加进帕玛森芝士和面包碎捏成小球。然后把每个裹上了粗细两种面粉小球炸成金黄。今晚,Barbieri大厨在盘子里创造出了一种强烈的色彩和口味的对比,以炸墨鱼球为基,涂上白葡萄酒和黑墨汁,在盘内点上少许南瓜酱,再配上明亮的绿色的豌豆和可食用的花朵。白的Terenzi ‘Balbino’ Vermentino Maremma Toscana非常适合搭配这种以海鲜为主的菜式。这支来自意大利托斯卡纳产区的酒,有着成熟柑橘的特征,完美的酸度,柔和的花草香,激烈而紧实的感觉。美妙的清新口感,强烈而持久。这种被较早收获的葡萄,能够留下一种清晰而干净的口味,非常适合搭配口味简单的菜式。

Following up on the soup was Chef Marco Barbieri’s Cuttlefish Spheres – a traditional dish prepared by mincing stewed cuttlefish with peas and then adding some Parmesan cheese and breadcrumbs and lastly shape into small balls. The balls are then coated with semolina and flour and fried. On this night, Chef Barbieri created an intense array of colors and tastes on the plate as a foundation for the fried squid balls with smears of a white wine and black ink reduction, drops of pumpkin puree, bright green peas, and edible flowers. The white Terenzi ‘Balbino’ Vermentino Maremma Toscana, from Tuscany, Italy boasted ripe citrus notes, subtle acidity, and gentle spice. The early harvesting of the grapes leaves a crisp, clean taste that was wonderfully fresh and intense and proved very suitable to the simple tastes of this seafood-centric dish.

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今晚的菜式中一次与本土菜肴的碰撞,Riccardo Messina大厨出人意料的向大家展示了他的手工小笼包佐新鲜瑞可达奶酪焦糖水梨黑松露。这个优雅的创意意大利面,带有明显的手工意大利饺子的特征并塞满了新鲜而清淡的瑞可达奶酪,摆在特制的番茄酱上(一种在58摄氏度下慢慢熬制而成的厚实而较甜的番茄酱)外脆里嫩的焦糖梨和自然的白松露,还有帕玛森芝士饼干是这个美味奶酪小笼包的配菜。与这个清淡的奶酪和意大利面的双重奏搭配的葡萄酒,是来自上阿迪杰大区,Kellerei-Cantina Andrian的黑皮诺,这是一个非常大胆的决定,不过它做的很好,来自浆果的微酸很好的带出了来自奶酪和番茄的甜味。

Putting a local touch to the night, Chef Riccardo Messina surprised the crowd with his version of handmade ricotta cheese “xiaolongbao”, caramelize pear and truffle. This elegant fusion pasta dish featured handmade fagottini-style al-dante ravioli, stuffed with fresh, light ricotta cheese, and laid out on Coulis of tomato sauce (a “sweet” way to prepare a thick tomato sauce slow cooked at 58°). Decadent crunchy caramelize pear and earthy white truffle, with a Parmesan cookie accompanied the parcels of cheese. Kellerei-Cantina Andrian’s earthy Pinot Noir Alto Adige was a bold pairing with this light cheese and pasta duo, but worked well with the slight acidity of the berries accentuating the sweetness of the cheese and tomato sauce.

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下一道令客人惊艳叫绝的菜式是来自大厨Marco Busatti的家乡,历史悠久的托斯卡纳传统老菜,慢火烹调的野猪肉配巧克力酱和栗子。带有强烈肉欲而油腻的野猪肉包裹着精心腌制的培根,再配上半甜的巧克力酱,蜜饯橙,柠檬和松子。如果搭配旁边的栗子泥一起吃,则又会多了一种更滑爽而原始的维度。来自威尼托大区的葡萄酒La Collina Dei Ciliegi’s Ripasso Della Valpolicella DOC,干而细腻的单宁,微妙而富有层次感,巧妙的搭配上巧克力的苦甜味,泥土味的山猪肉和栗子。葡萄酒温柔细腻的水果口味又带有饱满而悠长成熟的余韵,很好的衬托了柑橘味道的蜜饯水果。

Chef Marco Busatti next wowed the guests with an old traditional hometown Tuscany recipe, his slow cooked Wild Boar Pork with Chocolate Sauce and Chestnut. The strong, gamy taste of the unctuous wild boar wrapped with confit-cooked bacon was complemented by the semi-sweetness of the chocolate sauce, candied orange & lemon, and pine nuts. The accompanying chestnut puree added an extra smooth, earthy dimension. The dry, fine tannins and subtle, but structured, tastes of La Collina Dei Ciliegi’s Ripasso Della Valpolicella DOC, from the Veneto region, paired nicely with the bittersweet chocolate and earthy tastes of the boar meat and chestnut. The wine’s gentle and delicate tones of fruit with powerful and long, ripe finish complemented the citrusy candied fruits.

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受到来自杰克逊•波洛克的画作《秋韵》的影响,大厨Giuseppe Tino新创了他自己的甜品艺术,并起名为波洛克之秋。Tino大厨将多种巧克力,各色水果和核桃霜做成他所需要的颜色,质地和形状随意的泼洒在盘子上,使得每一盘甜品都是一个独一无二的艺术品,让这道甜品每一次的呈现都略有不同。那个巨大的红球是用可可脂制成,并涂上草莓粉。一个小小的巧克力是用焦糖巧克力和香醋制成的。这里又有一个大胆而成功的配酒,Fratelli Zeni的红酒Recioto Della Valpolicella Classico DOCG,也是来自威尼托大区,搭配这个迷你的甜品盘。葡萄酒是用20年老藤上结出的葡萄,摘下后晾干至保留高度的葡萄糖份。和甜味巧克力及各种酱一起享用,葡萄酒立即让你口中多汁,口水满满。

Influenced and inspired by Jackson Pollock’s Autumn Rhythm, Chef Giuseppe Tino created his own dessert work of art, entitled “L’autunno Di Pollock”, Chef Tino used several varieties of chocolates and colorful fruit and walnut creams to create casual splashes of color, texture, and geometry. Each plate was a unique work of food art, each slightly different in presentation. A large red orb was made from cocoa butter and coated in strawberry powder. A small chocolate was made with caramel chocolate and balsamic vinegar. Another successfully brave pairing choice was selecting Fratelli Zeni’s red Recioto Della Valpolicella Classico DOCG, also from the Veneto region, with this decedent mini-dessert table on a plate. The grapes used in this wine, grown on vines which are over 20 years old, are picked and left to raisin to achieve a high concentration of sugar. Enjoyed with the sweet chocolates and sauces, this wine creates a juicy, mouth-watering treat.

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如果这篇回顾让你产生了兴趣,并激起了你的食欲的话,那么我建议你密切关注今年下半年即将举行的第二次活动。你将不仅仅得到一份6道菜的意大利美食体验,更将与中国的贫困儿童一起分享爱,因为所得的所有款项都将被捐赠给宝贝基金会。

If this review has peaked your interest and whet your appetite then I suggest you keep your eyes open for the next epic upcoming installment later this year. You will not only enjoy a one-of-a-kind 6-course Italian culinary experience, but you will also be sharing the love with some of China’s underprivileged children because all proceeds are donated to the Baobei charity.

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“Chefs in the City” 是一个总部位于上海的非营利性组织,旨在打造最完美的“意大利美食体验”,从全球采购最高质量的食材。今年Chefs in the City项目获得的所有收入都将被捐赠给宝贝基金会。

“Chefs in the City” a Shanghai-based nonprofit organization, aims to create the very best of the “Italian culinary experience” but with globally sourced ingredients of the highest quality. All proceeds from this year’s Chefs in the City events will be donated to the Baobei Foundation charity organization.

Da Ivo Italian Restaurant

菜品/Food: ★★★★★

坏境/Environment: ★★★★

服务/Service: ★★★★★

CITC联系人/ Contact Person:press@citcshanghai.com

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