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【沪】RAW:静安区激动人心的欧式炭烤餐厅 | RAW: Exciting new Euro-Grill Concept in JingAn

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作者/Author: Leslie Ruskin

摄影/Photographer & Leslie Ruskin

RAW 菜式是以西班牙风味为基础,但是以欧式碳烤为主的一家令人印象深刻的餐厅,它坐落在交通便利的静安区,在延平路98号,原La Stazione 的二楼。

RAW is an impressive new Spanish-based, Euro-grill-centric restaurant that’s opened up in convenient Jing’an District in the second floor of 98 Yanping Rd, the former La Stazione.

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这家餐厅的合作伙伴有Gilles Bihi-Zenou(也是前La Stazione的合作伙伴),Milena Li以及部分来自malabar Tapas团队,包括Jose Iniguez, 以及行政主厨Juan Campos,同时他也是Raw的行政主厨。总经理Justin Jiang,再加上热情的楼层经理Jon Mikeo,这样一个团队就完整了。

The mix of partners behind this concept restaurant includes Gilles Bihi-Zenou (former La Stazione partner), Jose Iniguez, Milena Li, and extremely passionate and talented Spanish executive chef and restaurant partner – 34 year-old Venezuelan Juan Campos. Justin Jiang, the GM, and Jon Mikeo, a very enthusiastic floor manager, round out the team.

我参加了试运营的试吃的夜晚,满腔热情又才华横溢的34岁委内瑞拉主厨Campos向我讲述了新颖的欧式碳烤烹饪背后的故事——RAW是以久远的西班牙概念风味为基础,运用上好的食材,再用谦逊而含蓄的烹饪方式调配而来的。RAW 代表了原始的能量和提供没有多余装饰的高质量食物的热情。事实上,我们试吃的每道菜,都感觉到了新鲜在口中呐喊。RAW的主题展现在他们餐厅的各个角落,砖块,混凝土和木材等的显露让餐厅的装饰和氛围充满了温暖,舒适和朴实。柔和的灯光洒在桌子上面,立体音响飘出的经典摇滚乐也充分地让用餐者感到舒适。

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On the night that I attended a soft opening tasting, Chef Campos, alsocurrently a partner and executive chef at the successful Spanish Bund-located restaurant Malabar, described the motivations behind this new Euro-grill cuisine – RAW is the result of a Spanish based concept that was a long time in the making, based on solid produce of the finest quality, and prepared in an unpretentious manner. RAW represents raw energy and passion for serving up the raw elements of quality meals without the excess frills. In fact, each dish that we tried during this soft opening tasting screamed of FRESHness. The RAW theme spills over to include the restaurant’s ambiance and décor, that being mostly being warm, comforting, earthy elements, such as exposed brick, concrete, and wood. The comfort continues with soft lighting, well spaced out tables, and soft modern and classic rock on the stereo.

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RAW独有的特性之一是他们所有的碳烤的食物都是用西班牙进口的一流碳烤箱Josper 的碳烤系列 产品制作而成。为了保证最棒的味道,为了达到强烈的烟熏味道,厨师Mikeo使用独有的苹果木组合,还有三种优质木炭保持在一定的温度下发光发热。

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One of RAW’s unique features is that all of their grilling happens in their top-notch Josper charcoal grilling unit, imported from Spain. To ensure imbuing maximum taste, Chef Mikeo uses a secret combination of apple wood for intense heavenly smoky flavors, and three kinds of high-quality charcoal to glow at a very consistent red temperature.

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Campos厨师对细节的用心在第一道菜上桌之间就已经让我惊喜,一篮子的烤面包,两盒定制的黄油,一盒黄油混合三种胡椒,一盒黄油混合了海苔和大蒜。

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Chef Campos’ attention to details shined bright even before the first plate arrived, in the form of a basket of toasted bread and two small custom-made tins of butter, one blended with three kinds of peppers, and another blended with an irresistible seaweed and garlic!

第一个道菜—焦糖山羊芝士沙拉(88¥)—显示了厨师在多种不同的元素中,寻求符合各个方面的一种平衡能力,从味道到纹理和颜色都让人感觉到了食物的新鲜。新鲜爽口的芝麻菜让人感到微苦,底下甜美多汁的烤菠萝散发着碳烤的香味,碳烤后的菠萝产生了完美适度的酸甜。鲜绿的沙拉上点缀了白色可爱的橄榄油粉,橄榄油粉入口即化。焦糖山羊芝士融合了两种完全不同的口感—表面香脆微甜,内部却像天鹅绒一般柔软丝滑。最后微咸的香蒜沙司酱使整道菜拥有一种微妙的平衡感。

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The first starter – Caramelized Goat Cheese Salad (88元) – displayed the chef’s ability to create balance among several diverse elements simultaneously on several dimensions, from taste to textures and colors, all while maintaining a remarkable freshness. Crunchy fresh arugula provides a spicy bitterness. A base of grilled pineapple bursts with juicy sweetness and provides hints of smokiness. An appropriate level of acidity is achieved with the slightly sweet vinaigrette made from juice from grilled pineapple. A lovely sprinkling of white snow on top of the pile of bright green leaves offers a smooth texture as the Olive Oil Powder melts in the mouth. Caramelized goat cheese provides a mix of two opposing textures – crunchy, slightly sweet outside, and luscious, velvety smooth creaminess inside. Slightly salty pesto sauce completed a delicate balance.

第二道菜—智利和牛塔靼(128¥) ,拥有精瘦的牛肉,切碎后,在上面放从日本进口的有机橘黄色蛋黄—也很快就被吃完了,在讲解中,厨师Juan再次展示了他对细节的用心。像前菜里和面包搭配的黄油一样,塔靼和新鲜的洋葱辣调酱都是分别装在不同的金属容器里的。蛋黄会先经过微微地烟熏再放到冷却的碎牛肉上。同样的,洋葱辣调酱里面的辣椒让整道菜完整起来,里面的酸度让整道菜肴更加的爽口。这道菜还包括一篮子的薄烤面包和一碗调过味的土豆条(不幸的是,如果再松脆一点就好了)。

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The next starter – a very lean, ground Chilean Wagyu Beef Tartare (128元) topped with an organic, bright orange egg yolk imported from Japan – also quickly disappeared. Chef Juan again demonstrates his attention to detail in the presentation of this dish. Similar to the small butter compacts accompanying the complementary breadbasket, both the tartare and the accompanying fresh salsa garnish arrive in their own metal compact containers. The chef’s talent for subtleties shines again by first gently smoking the egg yolk before setting it atop the generous portion of chillingly fresh, lean ground beef. Similarly, hints of chili in the tangy salsa add a zip and some acidity to balance out the mouthful of flavors. A basket of thinly sliced sour bread toast and a bowl of nicely seasoned and thinly julienned potatoes (which unfortunately could have been crispier) are also included.

我们试的下一道是自制烟熏黄尾鰤 (鱼片状)(98 元)。我们再次注意到在这道鱼中,由不同元素所创造出来,将各国特色平衡完美融合的美味。这鱼超新鲜,如生鱼片薄的顶及鰤脊肉产融在嘴里柔软化口而和略带柑橘味。炸玉米粒为这道菜添加了香脆的质感也与紫薯非常的般配;撒在上最上面作点缀的是芫荽油,很好的衬托出了鱼片,另外辣椒油也添加了有趣的风味,为这道菜带来了更大的惊喜。一勺自制芒果雪芭配在鱼片旁除了点缀效果之外也能有助于冷却,事实上连雪芭中都藏有些微辛辣心思,大厨在里面微量加入了三种辣椒。

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We next sampled the Smoked Yellowtail Tiradito (think fish Carpaccio) (98元). Once again we took notice of the intentional balance created by the different elements in this dish. The ultra-fresh, sushi-thin, slices of Vietnam-sourced, top loin Yellowtail yield melt-in-the-mouth softness and citrus tastes. Small dollops of purple mashed causa offer vibrant color and a complementary soft mouth feel. Fried corn bits add a crunchy texture and earthy taste that works well with the purple potato. Drizzled on top is coriander oil which nicely complements the fish slices, and chili oil which adds an interesting zip and also works with the dish’s big surprise. A scoop of house-made mango sorbet sits aside the raw fish fillets, which while adding a cooling factor, in fact, hides a mild spicy punch, infused with three kinds of chili.

一个高度推荐菜真的能体现他们的烧烤技术和朴实风格的是烤芦笋杏仁煎蛋面包配黑松露佐松露蛋黄酱汁(78 ¥)。黑松露提了这道菜的朴实以及烟熏味,松露蒜泥下躺着蛋黄泡沫。我们又享受流黄慢熟蛋,内部斯滑与香煎酥脆的表面有着鲜明的对比,他们的蛋也由日本进口的有机蛋。

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One highly recommended dish that really shows off the divinely smoky & earthy tastes of their grilling technique is the Grilled Asparagus (78元) with black truffle and parmesan shavings. The earthy, smoky tastes are accentuated from both the truffle shavings, and from the truffle aioli foam lying below. We again enjoyed the contrasting textures of runny slow-cooked yolky insides and the fried outer crust of the almond crusted fried 63° Egg, also made from organic eggs imported from Japan.

晚上第一个主菜是另一个亮点,是他们让翘首以待的自制照烧黄尾鰤(278 元)。虽然菜单上是说是和两位食用,然而如此慷慨的分量,四人吃这块鱼肚排也绰绰有余。每咬一口渗出浓郁的酱汁味道很新鲜,以为是即刻现抓的鱼呢!在与大厨Campos想用几杯西班牙咖啡开胃酒并闲聊之余,我学到了一些酱的秘密成分,他们美味的自制秘方包括酱油、 清酒、 味醂 (寿司) 醋、 鸡汤 (当然由正统烤鸡产生的鸡汁),最后来点黄尾鰤骨粉来添加更多一点鲜味。几个细烤西兰花,仍然脆新鲜配上令人赏心悦目的摆盘。

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The first main course of the evening was another highlight, an order of their succulently grilled Homemade Teriyaki Yellowtail (278元). The menu shows that the standard serving is a portion for two people, but is so generous that this fish belly steak can easily be shared by four. Each bite oozes citrusy, briny juices which taste so fresh that I thought I was eating fish caught that day! After plying Chef Campos with a couple of shots of Spanish coffee aperitif, I learned some of the sauce’s secret ingredients. Their finger-licking-good homemade teriyaki includes soy sauce, sake, mirin (sushi) vinegar, chicken stock (made from grilled chicken, of course), and finally some Yellowtail fish bone powder to add a bit more fishiness to highlight the fresh briny tastes. Several aptly grilled broccoli florets, still crunchy fresh and delightfully smoky, adorn the plate.

今晚最后到我们餐桌上和肚子里的是经过完美炭烤及摆盘的高质量智利散养牛薄裙肉(250g/278元)。每一口爆用美味的熔化的牛肉脂肪。两种美味调味酱 (Moso Picon & Chimichurri) 很好的带出及补充了牛排的美味,却完全不喧宾夺主,依然保有天然牛肉风味。切好的牛排配上迷迭香、炭烤大蒜及红辣椒片,样貌好似一堆干草的炒韭菜丝和零星的海盐。另外可以点两道配菜,我们选择了炭烤进口马铃薯佐烟熏酱汁及青瓜酸奶酪酱汁,和非常新鲜、香脆、带味的炒龙豆配辣椒和大蒜。这一大盘从厨房新鲜出炉,送到餐桌上时盘中的迷迭香还阵阵冒烟呢。由此产生的飘来的阵阵的迷迭香的香味徘徊在餐厅的每个角落。

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The last plate to reach our table and our bellies on this night was the perfectly grilled and perfectly marbled, high quality, Chilean free-range Wagyu Entraña Thin Skirt Steak (250g/278元). Every bite burst with tasty melted beef fat. Two delicious sauces (Moso Picon & Chimichurri) served with the steak bring out & complement, rather than drown out, the natural beefy flavors. The sliced steak is plated with large cloves of buttery, soft roasted garlic, slices of roasted red peppers, a nest of quick-fried leek shreds resembling a mound of hay, and a smattering of sea salt on the side. Two sides accompany the order. We opted for the baked (imported) potato resting atop an addictive Eggplant aioli, and the fresh, crunchy, hearty, and flavorful chopped Chinese dragon beans (or winged bean). The platter is brought out from the kitchen with a fresh sprig of rosemary with some of its leaves are set on fire and still smoking when it arrives at the table. The resulting wafts of fresh rosemary fragrance linger through the restaurant with each order.

我们也非常享受用一些店内特制的酒来搭配不同美食。我们发现他们的特色多汁浆果西班牙酿红酒能带出红肉类菜色的纯朴风味跟口感。口感清新 半干湿的西班牙白葡萄酒与新鲜多蛋白质的海鲜类及色菜佳肴能带给客人令人垂涎的喜悦。

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We also greatly enjoyed pairing some of the venue’s house wines with the different dishes. We discovered their berry-juicy Spanish Crianza house red wine revealed many earthy tones of the red meat dishes. The crisp, semi-dry, Spanish Albarino house white supplemented the freshness of the fish and veggie dishes and their combined acidity yielded mouthwatering delight.

虽然价格不比其他附近高质量的餐厅低,但我觉得这家餐厅的性价比真的很高。考虑到他们非常友好和乐于助人服务,选择使用食材和烹饪方法, 方便、 舒适的环境和每道菜品背后的付出,我很快就明白为什么,尽管Raw仍处于试营运阶段,但周日晚上几乎是满座的。这也难怪,因为好风评传播的快。我知道,我很快还会回来试试他们的新菜品以及今晚所享受过的各个出色又令人难忘的美食。

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While prices are comparable to other high quality dining in the neighborhood, I found that the value for RMB is substantial. Considering their very friendly and helpful service, use of choice produce and cooking methods, convenient and comfortable environment, and the combined talents of the team behind the meal, I quickly understood why, even while RAW is still be in their soft opening, almost every table was full on this Sunday night. It’s no wonder, since good word spreads quickly. I know that I’ll be back again soon to see how their offerings expand and enjoy more of some of this night’s highlights.

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地址:静安区延平路98号,原La Stazione 的二楼

菜品/Food: ★★★★

坏境/Environment: ★★★

服务/Service: ★★★★

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